THE SCENIC ROUTES OF SWAZILAND
Most of the routes in this section are suitable for ordinary cars, although some of the gravel or dirt sections, which are indicated as such on the map, may require a 4 x 4 vehicle in wet weather. There are several separate 4 x 4 routes and visitors requiring information on these should contact one of the people listed at the end of this section. Don't forget to take binoculars and a camera before setting out on these routes.
- THE HILLS OF HHOHHO: Mbabane to Piggs Peak and Ngonini: Distance
99 km. Add 36 km for Bulembu and 80 km for the Endzingeni/Herefords options. This route follows the highway to the Ngwenya border coming from Mbabane and turns right at Motshane, passing the Hawane Dam. At Hawane there is a leisure resort with exciting activities for all the family, as well as an ethnic restaurant and accommodation. Further along is the entrance to the Malolotja Nature Reserve - a haven for nature lovers. This is one of the finest scenic routes in Swaziland, taking the traveler along a winding tarred road fringed by spectacular mountain scenery that is interspersed with gorges and waterfalls.
Stop and buy a souvenir at one of the many craft stalls along the roadside or enjoy dancing to the drumbeat by grinning young boys dressed in banana leaves (tips appreciated!).
Towards the northern edge of the historic town of Piggs Peak a gravel road to the left offers a scenic diversion to Bulembu and the site of the now defunct asbestos mine. This winding route may be awkward in wet weather, when a 4 x 4 vehicle is a better option. The area has been developed as a tourist attraction with charming accommodation available at the renovated mine houses known as Bulembu Country Lodge. It is hoped that this route will be tarred in the near future.
From Pigg's Peak, the road goes north through yet more awesome scenery towards Ngonini, one of the major citrus estates. Another diversion just beyond Piggs Peak goes to Endzingeni and on towards the sugar belt, and back via Herefords and Ngonini. About 10 km north of Pigg's Peak is the Phophonyane Nature Reserve, where visitors may enjoy yet more spectacular mountain and riverine scenery, waterfalls and walking trails, as well as viewing small mammals and 230 bird species.
At the nearby Peak Fine Craft Centre, is Coral Stephens Hand Weaving shop and workshop where fine hand-made mohair products are created. Take time to browse here, as well as at the other shops within this centre.
1b. MAGNIFICENT MAGUGA - A 25 km diversion along the Mbabane/Piggs Peak Route
With a capacity of 332 million cubic metres of water and a wall height of 115 metres, Maguga is the highest dam in the region. Since it was opened by His Majesty King Mswati III in 2002, a diversity of tourism attractions have been developed here, with investors taking advantage of this unique and truly beautiful part of rural Swaziland. Travelling in a northerly direction provides the most spectacular views of the area and over the dam. About 24 km along the Mbabane/Piggs Peak road is a clearly marked turning to Maguga on the right. About seven kilometers along this road is the turnoff to Swazi Ark of Arts and Crafts on the right, which is located two km along this diversion. It comprises an attractive rustic structure with a restaurant and craft centre and there are some wonderful views here. Caves containing ancient pottery have been located in the area, which is true rural Swaziland, complete with friendly local people.
Continuing along the winding main road the vista shortly opens up to reveal the first sight of Maguga Dam (about 4 km). Maguga Lodge on the left offers a wealth of facilities plus second-to-none views of the dam. There are plenty of parking opportunities along this section but it is well worth stopping for refreshments or a meal at the lodge while enjoying the vista from the rustic verandah. About one km. further on is the community-run view site, where refreshments and crafts are on sale. This offers spectacular views over the spillway and is further described under Community Tourism. Shortly after the view site is the T-junction that meets the main Mbabane/Piggs Peak road.
- THE TEA ROAD: A circular route from Ezulwini: Distance 62 km.
Travelling from Mbabane and just before the Timbali Lodge turn off, is a road to the left which marks the start of the scenic Tea Road route. It is so named following a failed bid to establish a tea plantation in the area during the 1970s. You will pass the large satellite telecommunications dish on the left before starting the steep climb to the top of the Mdzimba Mountain Range. The panoramic, breath-taking views take in the Ezulwini Valley, Lobamba and Malkerns, and include the twin peaks of Sheba's Breasts which, according to legend, are the site of King Solomon's mines. The gravel road is marked by huge boulders and Swazi villages. As you continue your journey, take the left-hand fork (the right leads to an army camp and visitors are discouraged). 41 km from the start of the journey, turn right then left at 43.5 km and left again at 45.5 km, towards the Kwaluseni Campus of the University of Swaziland and on towards the highway near Matsapha Industrial Area. At this point, continue back to Ezulwini via Malkerns on the old road or along the MR3 highway. It is advisable take care along the steep gravel sections of this route in wet weather, especially if you are not using a 4 x 4 vehicle.
3. SCENIC SPLENDOUR: Mbabane circular route to Manzini via Pine Valley and
Ezulwini. Distance 126 km. Drive northwards out of Mbabane past the club on the right. After two km, turn right at the Pine Valley sign. This route will take you through the beautiful Pine Valley, past the famous Sibebe Rock, which is the world's largest exposed granite dome or pluton, and on to Mbuluzi, named after the nearby river. The road becomes gravel from this point. At 43 km, take the left-hand fork (the right leads back to Mbabane) and continue, through typical rural Swaziland, passing villages and homesteads. Take a right-hand fork and continue through the countryside until you come to the village of Luve. The road is now tarred and you will arrive at Mafutseni after another 15 km. Turn right towards Manzini, the bustling "Hub of Swaziland", and the route will take you past Matsapha, which is the country's main industrial area. You may now continue along the MR3 highway back to Mbabane but it is worth taking the old road to the left and driving on to Malkerns. This rural area is rich in farmland and provides some interesting diversions, including craft shops and stalls and the well-known Swazi Candles factory and Malandela's Centre. These are off the route but clearly sign-posted and well worth a visit. The drive continues through the Ezulwini Valley, up the MR3 Highway and back to Mbabane.
4. FORESTS AND VALLEYS: the Mbabane circular route via Mhlambanyatsi, Bhunya, Malkerns and Ezulwini: Distance 97 km.
This tarred route takes the visitor from Mbabane to the charming "English" village of Mhlambanyatsi about 25 km away, through mountains and hills that encompass one of the largest man-made forests in the world, within which are several well-stocked dams that are popular with local and visiting fly fishermen. On the way, the visitor will pass the Luphohlo Dam, which is often used for water sports. Just beyond the village of Mhlambanyatsi is the charming Forester's Arms Hotel, after which a winding road leads to Bhunya, the location of the pulp mill. At this point, turn left and travel through undulating agricultural land beside the Great Usuthu River on the right. You will pass Luyengo Campus, the agriculture faculty of the University of Swaziland and eventually arrive at the agricultural village of Malkerns. Here there are many lovely shops and craft centres and it is well worth stopping to browse and buy. Follow the road to Mahlanya and turning left at the T-junction, you will travel through the Ezulwini Valley with its many attractions, eventually joining the MR3 Highway to Mbabane.
5. RURAL GRANDEUR: the circular route from Nhlangano via Hlatikhulu and the Grand Valley to Kwaluseni , Malkerns, Luyengo and Mankayane. Return to Nhlangano via Gege. Distance 211 km. This route enables visitors to absorb many aspects of rural Swaziland. Starting from the southern town of Nhlangano, travel northwards along the Grand Valley route, which offers some of the country's most spectacular vistas of steep hills and deep valleys, with mountain views as far as the eye can see. It was in this area that the early Swazi clans first settled in the country, where the land rises from lowveld to middleveld.
About 25 km after Nhlangano is a loop road to the right, leading to the pretty village of Hlatikulu. This road also provides breathtaking views, which continue once the main road is rejoined, about 12 km after the village. The road ends at a T-junction near Manzini. Turn left and proceed along the MR3 highway as far as Matsapha Industrial Area. Do not use the flyover bridge, but bear left and continue along the old road (as opposed to the MR3 highway), then travel to Mahlanya and on to Malkerns, ending at the Luyengo Campus. At this point, continue towards Bhunya on the tar or turn left, in both cases following the Mankayane signs. This tiny, sleepy village with its quaint buildings is one of the oldest in Swaziland.
The excellent tar road takes you through yet more spectacular scenery. Look out for the Nhlangano sign about 26 km after Mankayane. You will now travel along an untarred road, past Swazi homesteads and villages, through a section of the Shiselweni Forests before arriving back at Nhlangano. A deviation of this route is the 19 km. drive from Nhlangano to Mahamba, where the scenic gorge has been developed as a community-based tourism centre with a café and self-catering rustic accommodation in stone cottages, which also offer comfort and luxury. The old Methodist church at Mahamba is also located in the area
6. THE CONSERVATION ROUTE: The Lubombo Conservancy - Eastern Swaziland from Lavumisa and Nsoko via Big Bend, Siteki, Simunye, Tshaneni and Mananga. Distance 190km.
This route, which incorporates the Kingdom's major conservation area and provides opportunities for big game sightings and birding, starts at the Lavumisa border. It runs northwards through village of Nsoko and past Nisela Safaris, the first of the nature reserves on the route, which is at the foot of the Lubombo Mountains and is famous for its lions and reptile park. The road goes on to the town of Big Bend, so-named because of the huge bend that occurs there in the adjacent river. This is home to Ubombo, one of the country's major sugar estates.
Travel past the Van Eck dam on the left and a few kilometres on, you have the option of continuing left towards Siphofaneni and the Mkhaya Game Reserve. This is Swaziland's refuge for endangered species, including the Kingdom's only population of buffalo, black rhino, tsessebe and sable antelope: fantastic viewing of these animals is virtually guaranteed. Mkhaya is responsible for saving the famous traditional Nguni Cattle breed from extinction - a conservation success in its own right. Prior booking for Mkhaya is essential - see advert for Big Game Parks inside front cover. Alternatively, turn right and continue towards Siteki, a fascinating old town set high in the hills, which is the original administrative capital of the Lubombo region. This road leads to the new Mhlumeni/Goba border which links Swaziland with Mozambique.
Continuing along the road to Mhlume, you will soon be in the heart of conservation land, where the three nature reserves of Hlane, Mlawula and Mbuluzi merge to form the Lebombo Conservancy. These reserves do not require prior booking for day visits although it is advisable to reserve accommodation in advance. Hlane is home to the kingdom's largest herds of game, including four of the Big Five. Mlawula, set at the foothills of the Lebombo Mountain, has intriguing flora, including cycad species that are native to Swaziland, as well as ancient iron wood trees.
The route continues on to Simunye and Mhlume, whose vast sugar estates form the Royal Swaziland Sugar Corporation. Just north of Simunye near Maphiveni is the community run Shewula Mountain Camp, set atop the Lubomb Mountain with stunning views and offering a wonderful experience of nature, as well as Swazi tradition and culture. The route ends at Tshaneni and the Mananga and Lomahasha borders.
NB Please note that distances given for the Scenic Routes will vary depending on side routes and diversions taken.
THE LUBOMBO ROUTE
Linking South Africa, Swaziland and Mozambique and representing regional cooperation between the three countries, this is one of the most popular tourist routes in the region. Broadly, the Lubombo Route runs between the Kruger National Park and Durban, and enables tourists to experience a choice of three options, each with its own highlights and stories. Two of these incorporate Swaziland. The first starts at either the Matsamo/Jeppes Reef border or the South African town of Barberton in the north-west, going on to Pigg's Peak, Ngwenya and through the Ezulwini Valley, then on to Big Bend and the Lavumisa/Golela border with South Africa. The second option begins at Mananga in the northeast and follows the Lubombo Conservancy as outlined under Scenic Route 6. It goes on to Big Bend before linking with South Africa at the Lavumisa/Golela border.